Glock 26 Trigger Upgrade - Few things are more important than a trigger when you're shooting. It remains at the forefront of the mind at every step of the firing sequence. Make sure you keep your finger away from it when drawing or aiming and ensure proper squeeze when firing. So, why do we accept this as a stock unit? Many people buy magazine extensions or colored magazine releases or backplates before considering a trigger upgrade.
With so many different aftermarket triggers, choosing the right trigger can be overwhelming. The most important thing you want to consider when buying a trigger is who made it? It may seem simple but it can be a time investment that saves money. If you're looking at a trigger and don't recognize the name, pop it into a Google search and read some reviews that aren't on the buying site. Check out several products from that company and see what kind of quality you can expect. The next thing to keep in mind is the extra parts included with the trigger. I like the kit that includes the disconnect and safety plunger for the slide. This gives me confidence that these parts will work together. Apart from all these criteria, look at the seller of the product. A good seller with a good reputation will always get my money before a no-name place, even if the price is slightly inflated. If something is wrong, you can call and do what you want.
Glock 26 Trigger Upgrade
Now, when you look at trigger upgrades for your Glock you're going to notice a few things: There are more options than you might think, every one of them is the best trigger on the market as advertised, and they're rarely considered cheap. This begs the question, why do it? Why spend this money on a new trigger when I already have one that works? But does it? A good trigger upgrade should be light enough so that it doesn't interfere with vision when taking a picture. It should be designed in such a way as to allow the shooter to aim at the same point of the trigger every time. The trigger should not attach to the weight during pulling. Above all, there should be a significant point where you know the trigger will break (the wall) and a very significant reset point. A good trigger does not feel like there is sand inside the gun (unless there is sand inside the gun). If your actuator can't do all that, it's time to upgrade. Your trigger is the most important line of communication between you and your handgun, clearing this line of communication will make things easier and better. You won't stick with a cell phone company if you're stuck with every phone call. Why deal with this in your trigger?
Maintaining Your Glock
When you look at your Glock and think about swapping out the trigger, keep in mind that you'll need to find a gunsmith and charge a price. Also, even if the gunsmith has everything, you can pay them to clean the underside of the trigger and block. Now you have to add that fee and wonder if you can try to negotiate the price if you do it together. It can be a headache or you can do it yourself. It's not a difficult task and will help you get down and clean those hard-to-clean areas to make a nice home for your new trigger. Now it's easy for me to sit here as a shooter and say it's easy, but I promise you that you can do it. Along with all things there is a disclaimer that you should not try to do anything with your firearm that you are not comfortable and confident with. There is no shame in that. Now let's see how simple it is.
To begin with I would like to say that we are only looking at the trigger here. The safety plunger is a slide element and we will not cover it at this time. I want an aluminum, flat face, apex trigger on my gun. In this case we are going to swap out the stock trigger with a Polymer 80 flat face trigger. The process is the same for almost all Glock triggers.
This is an important place to start with any firearm before any trigger upgrades. "Only you can stop NDs" is Bear's catchphrase to recreate Smokey.
There is only one tool that is really necessary, the other two are good to have in a pinch. I use the long shot as a decisive tool. If you don't have a punch like this, a hex wrench will work. If you choose to go that route, please make sure it's a smaller diameter than the pin. If it's too big it won't work and will damage the plastic holes. Hammers and bench blocks are a good backup plan if things get a little messy during removal.
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After cleaning the weapon again, make sure there is no ammo on the table or in the immediate area. Pull the slide back a little and hold it.
Pull down on both sides of the take down bar (small tabs next to and above the trigger). Once you lower the take down bar you can release the slide and pull the trigger (now you see why clearing is important). From here, you can pull the slide out of the frame of the weapon.
Start with the pin closest to the slide. This opens up a greater range of motion for a slide catch.
Remove the trigger pin by pushing it from the right side of the frame to the left. After removing this pin the slide catch must be removed as it is no longer in place.
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Pro tip: You can release the trigger pin without using a hammer by working on the slide release and trigger bar. This will save you some time and potentially damaged parts.
Push the catch pin. On the other hand avoid placing your hand on the pin. This pin is tight and can give quickly. It probably won't be too bad, but it will hurt. Trust me on this one.
By removing all the pins, we can remove the block. The block is a large metal bracket that goes over the actuator. It can usually be picked up from the front end with your fingernails. If not, you can use a pair of needle nose pliers if it really is.
Now that the block and pin are removed, we can pull the trigger and rear assembly out of the frame. If the rear assembly is stiff, lift up the ejector. As soon as it starts to come out it can be removed from the charge and trigger. Now that the interior is out, take this time to give your frame a good clean. This is not an area that is cleaned often and since everything is already done, now is a good time to do it.
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To remove the trigger bar from the rear housing, simply twist and turn the trigger bar to clear the plastic channel tab that holds it. From here you can twist the trigger onto the housing and remove the spring that connects the bar to the housing. Depending on your kit you may have a new spring and disconnector. If you change them now.
Remove the spring from the housing and pull the disconnector to remove it. If the disconnector is seized in place, insert a wide flat head screwdriver into the space between the disconnector and the housing and twist while pressing the bottom of the disconnector upwards.
If you need to replace the disconnector, push in the new one instead of the old one. If you are replacing the spring, simply attach it to the back of the housing. Make sure the spring curl is inserted into the housing hole. Install the new trigger by attaching the spring and bending and rolling the trigger bar back into the plastic channel.
Install the block back into place. If you are unsure of the direction of the block, it will lean forward when the thick lugs point down. If that doesn't help, don't worry. It only goes one way.
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Start by installing the catch pin. I want to do this now to make sure I don't mix up the pins. You should have a large pin, a small, thin, smooth pin, and a thin pin with the tip wider than the center. A smooth pin is the pin on your back that needs it
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